Saturday, August 23, 2008

Estadio Nacional: Maintain or Reconstruct?

This is a topic I´ve been marinating on for several days now (gotta love the word ¨marinate¨), ever since I walked past the Estadio Nacional last week with D and his brother. I´ve been there several times before, but this day was somewhat different. We went to drop off D´s sister at her atletismo class, and after doing so, decided to walk through the ¨farm¨right beside it. As we walked down the pathway, suddenly the Estadio loomed ahead, and I looked up to see this piece of architecture that was stained with dirt and grime, and so much history. "You know,¨D´s brother said to me, ¨this was the site of so many executions in 1973... it was like Chile´s holocaust.¨ As if I wasn´t chilled enough already by the cold air and fine mist that was falling, those words chilled me even more. I knew about what happened in 1973, of course, but somehow I´d forgotten that a lot of it took place at the Estadio. I don´t really believe in ghosts or anything like that, but I did get a bad feeling walking by the Estadio. It´s hard to even explain, really. I guess just knowing the weight of what took place there so many years ago made me reluctant to look at it for very long. It´s better inside, but outside it´s just ugly. I´m sorry, but it is. It´s old, it´s grimy and dirty, it´s stained. But the thing is, so much history is enveloped by that building that currently, no one is allowed to tear it down and start over.

So my question is: should we? I say "we", but I really mean Chile. I´m a gringa, and as such, I figure I don´t really have much right to say that it should or shouldn´t be torn down. Anyway, it must be noted that of the history of the Estadio Nacional, there is both good and bad. I think this quote by Augusto Gongora sums it up pretty well:

"It is impossible not to ponder the history of the National Stadium: it was a refuge for Europeans fleeing Nazism in the Second World War; it was a joyous site of celebration when Chile won third place in the 1962 World Cup; it was made into a camp for the imprisoned, tortured and executed in 1973; it received the simple kiss of reparation from Pope John Paul II on soil that knew too much sorrow; it danced the "cueca" alone on March 12, 1990 in the days of “the fair and good homeland,” when Aylwin assumed power; it vibrated with music and human rights during the Amnesty International concert at the beginning of this decade. The National Stadium has more history than meets the eye."

The other day when I was thinking about it, I tried to think about it from the perspective of the families of those murdered in the Estadio. Wouldn´t leaving it as is be a constant reminder for them of what happened? Why not just tear it down and rebuild a new stadium, assuming money is not an issue? But then I thought... if they rebuild on the same piece of land, is it really going to help alleviate the concerns of those family members? And actually.. even if they tore this stadium down and built a new one in a different location, the memories are still there. The memories will persist, always, no matter what buildings are razed or constructed. So in the end, what is the point? Is there one?

9 comments:

Mamacita Chilena said...

I believe leaving it up is an insult to those who were tortured there. It's just a constant reminder, "We still live in Pinochet's society." He wrote the constitution that is still in place in this country, his daughter will now become Alcalde of (Las Condes? can't remember where) some comuna of Santiago, the Estadio Nacional stands proudly, a reminder of where so many were tortured. Yes, there is a point. The point being that as long as it's up, Pinochet wins. It makes me sick.

Valentina said...

"Estadio Nacional stands proudly, a reminder of where so many were tortured.."

that´s the point... people need to remind that.. need to remind the pain, those families always think in this: " es mejor no olvidar.. porque olvidar significa borrar algo de nuestras vidas..olvidar significa dejar a toda esa gente que aun no aparece..en el olvido.."

Last night i went to see the documental "the judge and the general" what the judge Juan guzman made about all these people..and their families before Pinochet´s death...and was amazing... there a woman said what i wrote you there about the estadio nacional and other places.. crying while she was talking...

so... Pinochet did not win...
chilean people see this trying to not forget..not because of him...because of them.

Jessica said...

good points - i lean more toward Kyle´s take though... i personally would rather see it torn down.

Maeskizzle said...

Yeah, memory is an important theme in Chilean history. I feel like lots of people here just want to forget the past rather than face it. I think it would be better to leave the stadium up for symbolic reasons, so people can't forget what happened. But, if for other practical reasons, they want to take it down, fine, because there are other places where people were tortured that can be held on to for historical reasons. Even if they wanted to, the families of the victims will never forget. Who might forget is the military, and the Pinochet supporters, that's why I think it's good to keep it around.

Mamacita - Jaime Guzmán wrote the constitution, not Pinochet, but Jaime did work closely with El General. Guzmán was influenced by the "Chicago Boys" in regards to his take on economic policy: neoliberalism. Guzman was assassinated in 1991.

Valentina: an English correction - you can say "people need to remember that" or "people need to be reminded of that", but you can't say "people need to remind that" same with "need to be reminded of the pain" "need to remember the pain" but not "need to remind of the pain". I'm not trying to be a jerk, I'm just correcting you because I like it when people correct my Spanish.

Valentina...Where is the documentary playing? That would be interesting to see, since no one in Chile talks about the dictatorship.

Shannon. said...

Hey, what are you doing this weekend?? Rodrigo is going to be gone on Saturday from 2 til 6 and I won't have anything to do, he won't approve, but do you wanna go explorin?? Or do you have plans already?

Shannon. said...

OK! Just let me know. I found my cell phone so you can call that now!!

Shannon. said...

I don't really know. I haven't really been anywhere since I have been here. anything you want to see or do??

Shannon. said...

I found you!! on Facebook!
So I talked to Ro, and Friday is a go!! I'm not sure on a time, but it's still Monday!! I had a lot of fun on Saturday thanks for inviting me!! Talk to you soon!

Shannon. said...

I think like 9pm friday will be good. that'll give me time to take a shower when i get home from work. I can't wait! it'll be so fun!!